Indian Katori Blouse - How to Stitch - Andhra Telugu Recipes - Indian Vegetarian Food Website




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Tips

Points To Remember:

Take a well fitting old blouse. Separate parts by removing all stitches carefully.

Press the separated pieces to remove creases. Removing creases is very important to get the exact paper cuttings of the pieces. So press to remove creases especially near the portions where stitches are removed.

While pressing do not press on the darts or else it would be difficult to take dart measurements later----Or------take dart measurements first and then press to remove all creases.

It is beneficial to use an old glossy calendar for paper cuttings. As newspaper is too thin it would tear off easily while handling. Also because of the newsprint on news paper it would be difficult to mark darts compared to the big pictures on calendar. Chart paper is not as thick as calendar and hence while cutting there would be come problem. So best would be old calendar.

While cutting cloth using paper patterns, first check the stretchable side of the cloth as it is very important. We need to place the paper cutting on the cloth in such a way that cloth stretches chest wise. If cloth is cut on the non-stretchable side there would be problem in the fitting of the blouse. 

Always cut the katora piece crossly as it stretches easily and one would feel comfortable when worn.

Take care and cut the sleeve also observing the stretchable side of the cloth. This is very important. If the sleeve is cut on the non-stretchable side it would not stretch and one would feel uncomfortable when blouse is worn.

All the paper patterns shown here are cut taking into account the extra seam widths.

With the paper patterns shown here, a blouse can be made using a 90cms.cloth as well. But a one metre cloth gives more flexibility so that one need not have any fear of falling short of cloth while stitching.

 It is not mandatory that all should use one metre cloth for stitching a blouse. To cut a blouse using 80cms.cloth with the same paper patterns shown here, we would not get sufficient seam inside for body as well as sleeves and also there would not be enough cloth for 4 waist bands. A blouse when stitched using only 2 waist bands would not give a nice finish as compared to a blouse stitched using 4 waist bands. However, if a deeper neck is cut for the back piece and the length of the blouse is reduced then there is a chance. For my blouses I generally prefer not so deeper necks and also the length of my blouse is more when compared in general. So using one’s own old blouse, cut paper patterns and arrange them on the cloth and see for oneself how much cloth would be sufficient for a blouse.

Always press the blouse piece to remove creases before cutting to get perfect shapes.

Take care while stitching the dart of lower part---stitch holding the cloth as mentioned to get the perfect shape. If dart is stitched the other way round---we do get the shape and good fitting also---but when worn the dart appears shifted slightly side wards. So it is better to hold the cloth in the said manner and stitch the dart.

Take dart measurements for the lower part as mentioned and take them reversely while marking on the other side piece. Also while stitching observe and stitch the darts or else it would go wrong. For marking the dart reversely on the other piece use a marking wheel. If a marking wheel is not there a pastry cutter works well as a marking wheel. Run the marking wheel on the dart pattern made with chalk on the cloth and it would appear on the reverse side of the other piece---then mark it with chalk.

We need to join three pieces (Lower part, Katora and Front side) to get one part of the front side of blouse. Though two pieces are cut simultaneously using a single paper pattern, it is very important to reverse the sides while stitching for the other part of the front blouse piece or else one would end up in stitching to similar portions.

Similarly take care while stitching the waist bands also. Here also we need to reverse the pieces and stitch. Observe and logically stitch to get correctly. While stitching waist bands always remember that the press stitch should be made on the piece which goes inside.

While joining katora piece to lower part, stretch the cloth which is falling short---stretch to required length and stitch. Similarly while joining the katora and lower part to the front side piece stretch and stitch. If the cloth is perfectly placed while cutting as mentioned, the stitch would be neat as shown without any sort of frills on the stitched length. If the cloth appears shrunk on the stitched length, then on the reverse side make small cuts throughout the length (not till the end) so that cloth stretches and gives a nice finish on the right side. If required do similarly for sleeves also. As these portions are curved, it may appear shrunk when stretched and stitched.

After stitching the button straps it is important to shape them near the neck (cut crossly along the shape of the katora piece) or else one would end up in an odd shaped neck(not a fitting neck).

For bias strips always cut the cloth diagonally as the cloth stretches to the maximum extent in such pieces. As the neck is round in shape, to stitch piping on curved portions, use bias strips cut as mentioned. Do not forget to stretch both bias strip and body cloth while stitching the neck.

Following the above points mentioned it would not be difficult to stitch one’s own blouse.

Acknowledgement:

Till my marriage excepting for a blouse all my garments and my brothers pants and shirts too were stitched by my parents (my mother stitched with logical inputs from my father). Watching them stitch our garments so many things registered in mind which gave me inspiration while attempting to stitch a blouse using a tailoring book. I express my gratitude to my mother and to my late father. 

I would like to acknowledge my gratitude to Smt. K Jyothi Suresh who gave me many valuable inputs, 20 years ago, in stitching a blouse.

I would also like to acknowledge my gratitude to Smt. Anjani Devi Acharyulu who inspired me to stitch my own blouse in the manner shown here.


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